Day 1 - Wednesday, July 4
The primary goal for this summer trip was a backpacking trip in Glacier National Park. I was also starting to get into the idea of visiting as many National Park sites as possible, so I planned a route that would allow me to see other parks on the way out and back. I had met Tatiana that spring, and since she would be in Denver I decided to visit her on the way out. Dan and Margaret's wedding was planned for late July, so I needed to be in Michigan then; since there would be more time after the wedding before school started, I also planned to hike in the White Mountains.
On the first day I drove west into West Virginia, eventually working my way down to I-64 and then into Kentucky. I enjoyed the rugged mountain scenery. Toward late afternoon I arrived at Mammoth Cave National Park, where I would camp for the next 2 nights. The large visitor center was still open, so I had some time to get oriented to the park.
Day 2 - Thursday, July 5
I had scheduled two cave tours. The first, the "new entrance tour" involved taking a bus a few miles to a less-used entrance, where our group entered an elevator to descend into the cave. The historic tour involved walking into the "main" cave entrance, near the visitor center. The main entrance looked like a large hole in the group, and had a constant flow of cool air emanating from it. The park also preserves a large amount of land above the cave, and I had time for a short hike.
Day 3 - Friday, July 6
I managed to see a lot on this day, and looking back I can hardly believe I did so much. In the morning I drove perhaps an hour to the Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historic Site. The site features a reconstructed log cabin as well as a large greek-style memorial, similar to the one in Washington DC. I then proceeded north into Indiana, where I visited a National Historic Site dedicated to Lincoln's boyhood. This site has restored farm buildings and interpretive information. I stayed for an hour or two before driving west across Hoosier National Forest to the town of Vincennes, where I visited the George Rogers Clark National Memorial. The park consisted of a monument to Clark as well as a visitor center interpreting his life. A little-known figure, Clark was the brother of William Clark, who along with Meriwether Lewis led the famous journey of exploration across the west. George Rogers Clark is memorialized for his role in fighting the British during the Revolution in this area of Indiana and Illinois - an area that at the time was undeveloped wilderness. I finished touring the site in the late afternoon, and realized that the Gateway Arch was open late and I would still have time to see it. I drove across Illinois on US route 50, and reached St. Louis in the early evening. The line for tickets to go up into the arch was rather long, and I did not want to deal with crowds and lines, so I contented myself with exploring the visitor center. The center interprets the natural and cultural history of the Mississippi River Basin in the context of westward expansion, and is officially termed the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial. A life-sized statue of Jefferson anchors the exhibits, which depict native American life, the plants, animals, and ecology of the plains and mountains, and the changes brought by settlement. It was late when I left, and I drove west beyond the city before finding a rest area where I could sleep for the night.
Day 4 - Saturday, July 7
It's hard to sleep well in the car, and soon after it was light I was awake and moving down the road. I headed southwest, on the way to visit the Tallgrass Prairie Preserve. This park is a unique partnership between the National Park Service and a private conservation group, preserving a remnant of the tallgrass prairie. I had a tour of the historic ranch house that serves as park headquarters, and van-based tour of the prairie. It was very interesting. I spent the rest of the afternoon driving west across Kansas, and slept in another rest area near the Colorado border.
Day 5 - Sunday, July 8
I arrived in Estes Park around noon, and found a place where I could take a shower before proceeding to the campground where Tatiana and I had agreed to meet. The spot we had discussed turned out to have no water and very rugged, rough sites, so I left a note for Tatiana and went south a short distance to Olive Ridge campground, a Forest Service area on the eastern edge of Rocky Mountain National Park. Eventually Tatiana showed up, and we shared a site near the back of the campground (I think it was site 48A) We reheated some food she had prepared on my campstove, and shared stories about our summer experiences thus far.
Day 6 - Monday, July 9
In the morning we drove a short distance to the Wild Basin area of the park, where there is a major trailhead. We hiked past Ouzel Falls to Ouzel Lake, where we had lunch, and then returned the way we had come. The trail actually proceeds further to Bluebird Lake, but I don't think we went that far.
Day 7 - Tuesday, July 10
I had planned to get up early and attempt a climb of Longs Peak, but the weather looked iffy and we stayed up late talking. Tatiana left to go back to work in the morning, and I went to the Longs Peak trailhead. I hiked up to Chasm Lake, which sits in a glacial cirque below the peak. I am still hoping to climb this peak at a later date. I returned to the campground and stayed another night, but it seemed empty without Tatiana there.
Day 8 - Wednesday, July 11
It was time to continue north toward Glacier. I followed I-25 into Wyoming, crossing the wide open spaces of the shortgrass prairie. In Montana I followed I-90 west, and got off the highway to drive through Amsterdam, a Dutch settlement where my mom had a college friend whose family we had visited several times when I was younger. I continued north from there, camping at a BLM campground along Canyon Ferry Lake, near Helena.
Day 9 - Thursday, July 12
I followed a scenic detour in the morning, driving highway 89 through the Lewis and Clark National Forest. From there I continued north to eventually arrive at Glacier National Park. I had reserved a campsite on the east end of the park at St. Mary. I had camped here with my family in 1986, and I fondly remembered the scenic setting. I had time in the afternoon to drive the famous scenic Going to the Sun Highway across the high country of the park, and checked out the visitor centers at the high alpine area and at Lake McDonald. I also checked out the memorable scene of Wild Goose Island on St. Mary Lake.
Day 10 - Friday, July 13
I started my long-planned backpacking trip in the morning, driving first to the Many Glacier area of the park. The first day's hiking was perhaps the most scenic, taking me north to a high pass through the Ptarmigan Tunnel, then back downhill to a campsite at Elizabeth Lake. The weather was perfect, and I enjoyed sitting and enjoying the view of the lake and snow-capped mountains from the campground in the evening.
Day 11 - Saturday, July 14
In the morning of the 2nd day, I experienced a couple of interesting water crossings. Many creeks in Glacier are crossed by swinging bridges that can be removed in the winter, to prevent damage from melting snow. I crossed own of these swinging bridges a couple of miles into the hike. Then, a few miles later, I had to ford a stream at the outlet of Cosley Lake. After drying off, I proceeded on a fairly easy hike to a campsite near Glenns Lake. After setting up camp I explored the area and took a fairly short side trail to Mokowanis Lake. I recall talking with other hikers who were camped there - because of bear danger, the campsites share a common cooking area.
Day 12 - Sunday, July 15
This would turn out to be the most challenging day of the trip. I started the morning climbing steadily towards Stony Indian Pass. I look a nice break at the top of the pass, and again at the campground below it. The route descended from there to an intersection where I turned south for a climb toward 50 mountain campground. A turn in the other direction at the trail intersection would have taken me to Goat Haunt, where one can board a boat into Canada's Waterton Lakes National Park. I remember being very tired when I reached the campground, which is above treeline in a stunning setting, with views of many distant peaks (perhaps 50 of them!) to the east. I set up camp and relaxed for a while, and explored the area a bit after eating dinner. This campground had been the setting for some of the action in the Nevada Barr book Blood Lure, so it was interesting to think about that.
Day 13 - Monday, July 16
Today's hike was rather easy and very scenic, staying above treeline for most of the route, called the Highline Trail. I had to cross a permanent snowfield, which had worried me a little but turned out to be fairly easy. I took a short side trail to Ahearn Pass to check out the view. My campsite for the night was at an intersection where the trail led to Swiftcurrent Chalet, a backcountry lodge. There were reports of recent Grizzly sightings near the campground, but I did not spot any.
Day 14 - Tuesday, July 17
It was a fairly easy hike back to the car in the morning, over Swiftcurrent Pass and then down through a beautiful valley. I arrived around noon, and went back to St. Mary to get a campsite there. In the afternoon I drove down to the Two Medicine area of the park, and also drove part of scenic US route 2 along the southern boundary and checked out one of the famous historic park lodges.
Day 15 - Wednesday, July 18
I planned an ambitious series of hikes for the day, so I arose at first light and drove up to Logan Pass, along Going to the Sun Highway. I hiked to Hidden Lake, revisiting a favorite spot from our family vacation in 1986. It was very cold in this exposed area, and the views were muted by clouds and fog. Returning to the car, I headed toward the west side of the park to hike the very popular Avalanche Lake trail. I was early enough that the trail was still uncrowded, and enjoyed the scenic, easy hike along a creek to a beautiful lake set among the mountains. There were many people on the trail for the return trip, and I was glad I had arrived when I did. For the final hike of the day I returned to the east side of the park and hiked up to Gunsight Lake, another glacial tarn in a scenic alpine setting. Along the way I saw several glaciers along the wooded route. I recall feeling very strong hiking without a heavy pack, and I fairly sailed along the trail.
Day 16 - Thursday, July 19
It was time to leave the park and start heading back east, and I arrived at Devils Tower National Monument in the afternoon. This famous landmark is the hard core of a volcano that has eroded away. I hiked around the base of the tower, and also saw some prairie dogs. It was still mid-afternoon, and I had time to press on toward Wind Cave National Park, where I got a campsite. This park, like Mammoth Cave, actually preserves a fairly large area of undeveloped landscape on the surface. The shortgrass prairie and rolling hills are home to bison and pronghorn.
Day 17 - Friday, July 20
I took a tour of Wind Cave in the morning, and then headed to Jewel Cave National Monument, where I toured that cave. In the late afternoon I stopped at Mt. Rushmore. I also took a scenic drive through Custer State Park, viewing interesting rock formations. I attended a ranger program in the evening at the Wind Cave campground, which was a delightfully non-crowded, peaceful spot.
Day 18 - Saturday, July 21
I continued east in the morning, getting off the highway for a scenic drive through Badlands National Park. I stopped for a couple of short hikes and to see the main visitor center. Continuing east, I arrived at an Iowa state park around dark. I used the park bathrooms to clean up a bit, but for some reason I decided not to say there, and continued driving another hour or two before sleeping in my car at a rest area.
Day 19 - Sunday, July 22
In the morning I visited Effigy Mounds National Monument, in the northeast corner of Iowa. This area preserves an archeological site where native Americans build mounds in the shape of various animals. I hiked for a view miles through the wooded area to view some of the mounds. In the afternoon I continued into Illinois, around Chicago, and arrived at the campground in Indiana Dunes National Seashore near dark.
Day 20 - Monday, July 23
I spent the morning in the National Seashore, taking a hike on the Cowles Bog Trail, which is named for a pioneering ecologist who studies succession here. I also visited the beach and Mt. Baldy, a high dune with a view. I don't recall a visitor center, although it seems like I would have visited it. In the afternoon I drove up to Grand Rapids and met up with Dan and Mark, and we went climbing and out to a restaurant for his bachelor party. The wedding was on Thursday the 26th, which was a break day for Camp Roger.
Day 21 - Monday, July 30th
I am not sure of which day I left again to head east. It was probably Monday the 30th of July, although it's certainly possible that I stayed in Michigan an entire week before taking off the next weekend. I drove north to Wilderness State Park, between Traverse City and Mackinaw on Lake Michigan, where I camped for the night.
Day 22 - Tuesday, July 31st
I spent much of the day driving along the shoreline of Lake Michigan and Lake Huron. I stopped to visit most of the state parks along the route, including Cheboygan, PH Hoeft, Harrisville, Tawas Point, and Bay City recreation area on Saginaw Bay. I crossed the Bluewater Bridge into Ontario early in the evening, and headed east across Ontario. I was intending to find a campsite in Canada, but failed to find any good options so I crossed back into New York and worked my way up to 4 Mile Creek State Park, setting up camp after 10 pm. In the morning I paid for my site and then continued east, arriving eventually at Fort Stanwix National Historic Site in Rome. This fort, in the middle of a medium-sized city, saw action during the revolutionary war. American soldiers held off British troops that were hoping to sweep south toward New York City. The weather was hot, so I also stopped at a state park with a lake beach north of town. I slept the night in a rest area along I-87, north of Albany.
Day 23 - Wednesday, August 1st
I spent a few hours in the morning touring Saratoga National Battlefield, which also commemorates action during the American Revolution. Then I continued east across Vermont and into New Hampshire. In the afternoon I arrived at a Forest Service office a few miles north of Pinkham Notch, at a trailhead for the Great Gulf Wildnerness. I got my permit, and backed a few miles into a campsite where I set up a base camp to use for the next few days. I camped near the intersection of the Great Gulf and Wamsutta trails.
Day 24 - Thursday, August 2nd
My plan for the next two days was to hike up above timberline along the Presidential range, returning to my base camp each day. In the morning I took the Buttress Trail up to the ridge. The trail seemed impossibly steep, and for a few stretches I had to attach my hiking poles to my back so I could use my hands for climbing. I took a break at Madison Hut, then climbed Madison Mountain, retraced my steps and the proceeding south along the ridge to climb Mt. Adams, Mt. Jefferson, and Mt. Clay. There were numerous day hikers on Jefferson and Adams, mostly people who had climbed somewhat-easier routes from the north and east, I think. I returned to camp on the Sphinx Trail. When I arrived I found that a squirrel had cut through the rope hold up my food bag, but fortunately I had not lost much food.
Day 25 - Friday, August 3rd
I climbed the ridge in the morning using the Great Gulf Trail, which I think was even steeper than the Buttress. One I reached the ridge it was a fairly easy hike up to Mt. Washington - my second visit to this famous spot. In 1998 I hiked up using the Jewel Trail and the Ammonusuc Ravine Trail on the eastern side of the mountain. In 2005 I ascended along the Appalachian Trail from the south. I spent some time relaxing at the summit building, which has a cafeteria, a weather museum, and a post office - mostly serving the folks that arrive on the auto road or the cog railroad. I continued south, following the A.T., down to Lakes of the Clouds Hut, then up over Mt. Monroe and Mt. Franklin. I turned around here and retraced my steps to the Lakes of the Clouds Hut, where I took a trail that bypasses the Mt. Washington summit around the west side of the peak, passing through an area known as the alpine garden. The weather was perfect for the entire day, as it had been the previous day, with blue sky and mild temperatures.
Day 26 - Saturday, August 4th
I hiked back out to my car in the morning. I had considered doing another strenuous day hike, climbing the Wildcat Range, but it looked like rain and I was worn out, so I decided to pass on the idea. I showered at Pinkham Notch, then headed south out of the mountains. I reached Lowell National Historic Site in the late afternoon, and learned about the industrial revolution and the history this historic mill town. I continued driving south, looking for a place to stay for the night. I ended up in a rest area in southern Massachusetts after failing to find a state park that was on my map of Rhode Island. I slept for an hour or two before a police officer woke me and asked me to move on, so I drove a ways further to Massasoit State Park. I arrived at around 2:00 AM, and surprisingly there was someone in the entrance booth. I had to do some pleading in order to convince him to let me in and find a campsite. In the morning I went to New Bedford Whaling National Historic Site in New Bedford. The park service runs a visitor center here, and helps to interpret several other related sites that are operated by other entities. In the afternoon I visited Roger Williams National Historic Site in Providence, Rhode Island, which consists only of a visitor center in a city park. I also stopped at a new visitor center in Pawtucket, part of Blackstone River National Heritage Corridor, which helps interpret the history of the industrial revolution in the area. I drove through Newport, passed some of the giant vacation homes of wealthy New York industrialists, before heading into Connecticut and finding a state park where I camped for the night.
Day 27 - Sunday, August 5th
I had one last stop before returning home - the Weir Farm National Historic Site. This site is a peaceful woodland retreat that was the home of painter J. Alden Weir. I toured the house and took a hike around the grounds before getting back on the road home.
