Maine

The Birches Shelters
Id : 290
Type : Shelter
Info : Two 4 person lean-tos & 4 tent spaces
Name : The Birches Shelters
Notes : Designated shelters for thru-hikers only!
Source : ATC
Official : Yes
Near_at : Yes
Fee : No
Capacity : 8
Accuracy : Approximate Location
County : Piscataquis
State : Maine
Quad_24k : MT KATAHDIN
Zone : 19
Segment : 101
At_land : No
Camping : Yes
Club : Maine Appalachian Trail Club
Usfs_land : No
Waypoint : The Birche

Hurd Brook Lean-to
Id : 61
Type : Shelter
Info : None
Name : Hurd Brook Lean-to
Notes : Water
Source : AMC
Official : Yes
Near_at : Yes
Fee : No
Capacity : 0
Accuracy : GPS
County : Piscataquis
State : Maine
Quad_24k : RAINBOW LAKE EAST
Zone : 19
Segment : 101
At_land : Yes
Camping : Unknown
Club : Maine Appalachian Trail Club
Usfs_land : No
Waypoint : Hurd Brook

Wadleigh Stream Lean-to
Id : 99
Type : Shelter
Info : None
Name : Wadleigh Stream Lean-to
Notes : AT reaches Wadleigh Stream Lean-to; water from stream--gm1
Source : ATC
Official : Yes
Near_at : Yes
Fee : No
Capacity : 6
Accuracy : GPS
County : Piscataquis
State : Maine
Quad_24k : WADLEIGH MT
Zone : 19
Segment : 102
At_land : Yes
Camping : Unknown
Club : Maine Appalachian Trail Club
Usfs_land : No
Waypoint : Wadleigh S

Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to
Info : None
Name : Cooper Brook Falls Lean-to
Notes : Water from brook; beautiful cascades immediately upstream; good swimming--gm2
Source : ATC
Accuracy : GPS
Quad_24k : NAHMAKANTA STREAM
At_land : Yes
Camping : Unknown
Waypoint : Cooper Br

Chairback Gap Lean-to
Name : Chairback Gap Lean-to
Notes : AT reaches Chairback Gap; spring on short side trail; Chairback Gap Lean-to is 1
Quad_24k : BARREN MT EAST
Waypoint : Chairback

Wilson Valley Lean-to
Name : Wilson Valley Lean-to
Notes : AT reaches short side trail to Wilson Valley Lean-to; water from small spring--g
Quad_24k : BARREN MT WEST
Waypoint : Wilson Val

Moxie Bald Lean-to
Name : Moxie Bald Lean-to
Notes : Water from pond; swimming in pond--gm4
County : Somerset
Quad_24k : BALD MT POND
Waypoint : Moxie Bald

Pierce Pond Lean-to
Name : Pierce Pond Lean-to
Notes : Pierce Pond Lean-to is on an arm of Pierce Pond--gm5
County : Somerset
Quad_24k : EAST CARRY POND
At_land : No
Waypoint : Pierce Pon

Horns Pond Lean-tos
Info : Double Shelters
Name : Horns Pond Lean-tos
Notes : Two lean-tos
Source : AMC
County : Franklin
Quad_24k : THE HORNS
Waypoint : Horns Pond

Spaulding Mountain Lean-to
Name : Spaulding Mountain Lean-to
Notes :
Source : AMC
County : Franklin
Quad_24k : MT ABRAHAM
Waypoint : Spaulding

Piazza Rock Lean-to
Name : Piazza Rock Lean-to
Notes :
County : Franklin
Quad_24k : SADDLEBACK MT
Camping : Yes
Waypoint : Piazza Roc

Bemis Mountain Lean-to
Name : Bemis Mountain Lean-to
Notes : AT reaches Bemis Mountain Lean-to; water from small stream--gm7
Quad_24k : METALLAK MT
Waypoint : Bemis Mtn

Speck Pond Shelter
Name : Speck Pond Shelter
Notes : Shelter at Speck Pond Campsite
Fee : Yes
County : Oxford
Quad_24k : OLD SPECK MT
At_land : No
Club : Appalachian Mountain Club
Waypoint : Speck Pond

Gentian Pond Campsite Shelter
Name : Gentian Pond Campsite Shelter
Notes : Shelter at Gentian Pond Campsite
Fee : Yes
County : Coos
State : New Hampshire
Quad_24k : SHELBURNE
Club : Appalachian Mountain Club
Waypoint : Gentian P

Distance 65.9 mi
Min Alt 621371.2 mi

Path

Distance 102.8 mi
Min Alt 621371.2 mi

Distance 67.8 mi
Min Alt 621371.2 mi

Day 1 - Route 2 to Gentian Pond
The summer of 2006 was crowded with activity. We had expected to have an opportunity to spend some time in California, and I had made reservations to hike the John Muir Trail in July. But then Tatiana’s job situation changed, with a permanent position becoming available in late summer. We also took our opportunity to fly to Ukraine and travel with Mark across Russia by train. After we returned, I flew to Colorado to see Dan and Mike and their families, and then back to Connecticut for Kim and Dave’s wedding. I had been home for less than a week of total time when Tatiana dropped me off at the Washington DC Greyhound station at 3:00am on the 21st of July. I boarded a bus bound for New York, and arrived at the giant Port Authority Bus Terminal around 8:00am. I had a 3 hour layover, and spent some time wandering mid-town Manhattan and visiting Grand Central Station. Then I boarded another bus headed for Boston. After a shorter layover at Boston’s north station, I climbed onto the third bus of the day, headed for Gorham, New Hampshire. My arrival was delayed by traffic, and late that night I checked into the Hiker’s Paradise hostel.
Sat. 7/22 Gentian Pond 11.8 Elevation profile
I slept in a bit to recover from the long travel time, and enjoyed a hearty breakfast at the restaurant associated with the hostel, then got a ride from the proprietor to the trailhead. I headed off into the woods, and was immediately re-acquainted with the rocks and roots of the White Mountains. The skies were cloudy, threatening rain. I made the initial climb without incident, and passed a couple of view spots, looking back at the lake created by the dam across the Androscoggin River and the Carter/Moriah range where I had finished my hike the previous year. A few miles later, the rain started. By the time I reached the Gentian Pond shelter, things were quite wet. There was still plenty of time to hike to another shelter, but I had determined to take it easy the first day out, and the rain was not encouraging for further travel. Within the next hour, two pairs of thru-hikers stopped by the shelter and then pressed on. I would end up seeing all of them later as well – two guys named Sven and Tailwind, and two women, one named Low-key and the other whose name I don’t recall. There were a couple of older guys staying in the shelter, which was in a picturesque setting near Gentian Pond. The pond was difficult to appreciate because of the rain, however. Around 10:00 I was awaked by the sounds of two hikers settling into the shelter. They had gotten a late start, and had come up one of the numerous side trails that climbs to the main ridge followed by the AT. The side trails are difficult to access with a vehicle, most of them starting from a poorly maintained gravel road. The hikers proceeded to get settled and cook their dinner, so sleep was a challenge for a while. It was hard to feel too resentful of these guys, knowing that they had hiked over rough terrain in the dark and rain, but I was still not happy they had arrived in this late fashion.

Day 2: Mahoosucs from Gentian Pond to Speck Pond
Sun 7/23 Speck Pond 14.7 Elevation profile
Conditions were still wet and drippy when I awoke the next day. It was not raining hard, but the rocks and roots bore the signs of wet weather. I was hiking through the Mahoosuc Range, with has a reputation as one of the most challenging sections of the entire trail. The range spans 32 miles from US 2 near Gorham to Grafton Notch in Maine. Today I crossed several high spots that were above tree line, and probably would have offered views in better weather. I could see nothing because of the clouds, however. After several miles of rugged climbing, I came to a battered blue sign announcing the border crossing. The sign read “Maine – the way things out to be”. The trail continued over several more rugged peaks, which remain indistinctive in my memory because of the rainy conditions. Around mid-day I took a break at Full Goose shelter, before descending into Mahoosuc Notch. The notch is a narrow valley or canyon between two mountains, filled with jumbled piles of large boulders. The sun rarely reaches the bottom of the notch, and patches of ice could be seen in many crevices. The trail follows the notch for about a mile, winding its way over and under boulders, sometimes passing through narrow areas that required the removal of my pack. I think it took well over an hour to travel this mile of trail – perhaps closer to two hours. I was thankful that the rain had stopped and the rocks were not slippery. After completing passage of the notch, the trail immediately ascended one of the steepest climbs on the entire route, going up Mahoosuc Arm. The rain returned partway up the climb, and by the time I reached the shelter at Speck Pond things were again quite wet. Visibility was so poor that I am not sure I even saw the pond, which is the highest in Maine. The shelter was crowded with hikers trying to stay dry. I spent a cold night, but was happy to be out of the rain.

Day 3: Speck Pond to Andover
Mon 7/24 Andover (Pine Ellis B&B) 17.5 Elevation profile
The rain cleared out overnight, but clouds and fog still shrouded the mountains when I started out the next day. I soon passed a side trail which led to Old Speck, the 3rd-highest peak in Maine at 4180’. I elected to pass on the trip to the top, figuring I would not be able to see anything. As I began the steep descent toward Grafton Notch, the weather began to clear. Partway down, I took in a view of Baldpate Mountain on the other side of the notch. Clear blue skies were in evidence by the time I reached the bottom. Grafton Notch is a state park, and there was a large parking lot with a number of cars. I took a break to dry things out a bit, but pushed on before too long. I had made arrangements to be picked up at the trailhead near Andover at 3:00, so I wanted to make sure I got there in time. The climb to Baldpate Mountain was moderately challenging, and ended with a significant amount of time above treeline. For the first time on the trip, I could enjoy the view. After descending the mountain I crossed a stream with a scenic cascading waterfall, Dunn Notch Falls, nearby. I arrived at the next paved road just as my ride was arriving to pick me up. Several miles of driving on a paved mountain road brought me to the small town of Andover, where we had stayed after finishing last year’s hike. I had hoped to make it to Grafton Notch the previous year, which explains the choice of lodging locations. The Pine Ellis B&B is really a hiker hostel, situated in an old home. I enjoyed a relaxing afternoon of doing laundry and relaxing. There was only one place to eat in town, and I ended up having dinner and breakfast there. I also picked up my next supply of food, which would keep me going for a week. I had started out with a 3-day supply in order to minimize the load while hiking the rugged Mahoosuc Range.

Day 4: Andover to Bemis Mountain
Tues 7/25 Bemis Mountain 18.8 Elevation profile
Today’s hike ended up being one of the most challenging of the entire trip. I covered more mileage than I had on previous days through rugged terrain, with a much heavier load of food. The route did not look overly challenging at first glance, since none of the climbs were up major mountains. But there were a series of steep ascents followed by precipitous drops, making for a difficult hike. The initial part of the hike involved a relatively modest climb through a forest of northern hardwoods. I took a break at the Hall Mountain Shelter, which was followed by a steep drop into Sawyer Notch where I forded a stream, and an even steeper climb to Moody Mountain. The elevation gain was short-lived, as the trail soon plunged down to South Arm Road, which also leads to Andover. Hikers frequently stay a couple of nights in town and “slackpack” through this section. The trail returned to near vertical after crossing the road, ascending toward a mountain called “Old Blue”. I was worn out when I reached the top, but a break and a Snickers bar revived me enough to move on. The trail passed through a section of old growth as it skirted Elephant Mountain, then crossed several peaks of Bemis Mountain before arriving at Bemis Mountain Shelter. There was a guy camping with his dog at the shelter, a local who had hiked in from the next road and was planning to go out the same way the following day. Later in the afternoon two thru-hikers, Fortune Cookie and Bloody Mess, arrived. They had been staying in another hostel in Andover. I would end up staying in the same shelter with them for several more nights throughout the rest of my trip. The weather was still pleasant, and we enjoyed the evening at the campsite.

Day 5: Bemis Mountain to Piazza Rock
Wed 7/26 Piazza Rock 19.5 Elevation profile
Blue skies and mild temperatures continued as I strode down the trail the next morning. This would be probably the least rugged section of western Maine, and I enjoyed the relatively easy hiking. The morning involved scrambling over several bumpy peaks of Bemis Mountain, then a descent to a ford of Bemis Stream, followed by a climb to ME route 17. The 2-lane paved road, like all of the roads crossed in Maine, was remote and carried little traffic. No more passing through interchange communities while crossing under a busy interstate highway, or waiting for a clear spot at some of the multi-lane road crossings in the mid-Atlantic. The road afforded a view of nearby Mooselookmeguntic Lake. The next section of trail was a pleasant walk past several “ponds”, which are bodies of water that would be called lakes elsewhere. I went for a swim at Long Pond. Towards the end of the afternoon I paused at an overlook to rest and take a photo. The trail continued downhill for a mile before crossing ME Route 4, which leads to Rangley – a common re-supply town for many hikers. I paused at a stream shortly after the road crossing to get water, when I discovered that my camera was missing. I realized almost immediately that I had probably left it at the top of the hill, at the overlook. I left my pack and jogged back up the trail – and found my camera sitting on a rock. I was relieved, but also frustrated. Fortunately it was a relatively easy hike the rest of the way to Piazza Rock Shelter. The shelter was in an interesting area. The woods had the classic “North Woods” feel, with large maple and birch trees. Nearby I found a rock formation that was the namesake for the shelter. It was a huge slab of rock cantilevered out in almost impossible fashion from the adjacent rocky hillside. The other interesting feature was the privy, which had two seats with a cribbage board between. Above the door was inscribed the words “Your Move”. A group of teenage boys were tenting near the shelter – I think they were from Quebec; the thru-hikers I had met the previous day showed up later, but I don’t recall if anyone else stayed in the shelter. Heavy rain moved in later in the evening, which would become a theme for the next few days. I was glad I had rescued my camera from an untimely end in the rain.

Day 6: Piazza Rock to Spaulding Mountain via Saddleback
Thurs 7/27 Spaulding Mountain 16.9 Elevation profile
The rain cleared by morning, and hiking conditions were good as I set off for another challenging day of hiking. The route through western Maine vies with the White Mountains for title of most rugged on the trail – a point that would be permanently drilled into my head by the end of the next three days. The immediate goal for today was Saddleback Mountain, which is really a chain of high points that jut up above treeline for several miles. The way up passed Ethel Pond, and the navigated an extremely rough and steep stretch to the top. Bloody Mess and Fortune were right behind me, and we took a break together at the top. I walked through the alpine zone across uneven terrain to the Horn, which is the eastern peak on Saddleback, then dipped down into stunted trees and back up to Saddleback Junior. By this time the skies were beginning to cloud over. The route dropped several thousand feet to ford Orbeton Stream, and then climbed again to reach Spaulding Mountain Shelter. During the climb the skies opened up and I walked the last mile or two through pouring rain. I had been hoping to hike 2 more miles to a side trail leading to Sugarloaf Mountain, where hikers are permitted to stay in the unoccupied Summit House – but the rain changed my plans. The weather also caused me to pass on a side trail to Mt. Abraham, which is reputed to have good views. The shelter was full, with a number of section hikers and southbound thru-hikers, plus a dog.

Day 7: Spaulding to Horns Pond
Fri 7/28 Horns Pond 18.6 Elevation profile
Conditions were still drippy and damp when I set off in the morning. It took more than an hour to climb the rugged, rocky trail over Spaulding Mountain and past the trail to Sugarloaf. The skies cleared a bit as I descended to a minor road crossed, then proceed to an assault of the very steep Crocker peaks – north and south. Another major descent ended at ME 27, which leads to Stratton. Bloody Mess and Fortune had hurried ahead so that they could catch a ride to town and pick up a package. I pushed on, beginning the ascent of the Bigelow Range. The Bigelows are similar to Saddleback – a mountain chain with several miles of above timberline route along the top. The area is protected as a state preserve. I ascended to a viewpoint overlooking Horns Pond, then dropped down to the shelters and campsite at Horns Pond. This was a popular area with multiple tent sites and three shelters. One shelter was a small historic structure adjacent to the trail; the others were large identical shelters facing the mountain. I settled down in one of them before another evening rainstorm hit. This time the rain was so hard that I could barely hear the people next to me. The site had a caretaker, and he hung out and talked to us for a while. I also wandered over to the pond for which the site is named – a small body of water nested into the spruce-fir forest.

Day 8: Bigelows to Pierce Pond
Sat 7/29 Pierce Pond 27.5 Elevation profile
I got an early start today, knowing that I had a long hike ahead of me. I wanted to get as far as Pierce Pond, where the next morning I could walk to the nearby Harrison Camps for breakfast. The first part of the day was challenging, as I scrambled up another rough section of trail towards Bigelow Peak. When I reached treeline, the wind was so fierce that I was afraid my pack cover would blow off. I was walking through a cloud and could not see more than a few dozen feet when I passed over the west peak of Bigelow. The trail descended into the trees and crossed a flat sag where a campsite and monument to Myron Avery were situation. Avery, for who the east Bigelow peak is named, was a driving force behind establishing the route of the trail in the 1920s and 30s, and was president of the Appalachian Trail Conference through the 50s. The wind was still strong when I crossed Avery Peak, but the cloud appeared to be lifting a little. As I descended from the top, the clouds below suddenly lifted and I was treated to an amazing view of the surrounding wooded countryside, including the large, blue Flagstaff Lake. I took a break at a side trail to admire the view, then continued a long descent, with a brief “up” again to cross Little Bigelow, down toward Flagstaff Lake. The next section of trail is rather easy, at least compared to the hiking I had done for the past week, and I was able to move along quite quickly. The route passed several ponds, including West Carry Pond where I took a break, and East Carry Pond where I went for a swim. Vicious mosquitoes bedeviled one short section of trail, but otherwise the hiking was pleasant. I crossed one remote, barren paved road on which someone had spray painted “2000 miles” – the approximate place at which this milestone is reached for a northbound hiker starting in Georgia. In the afternoon I hiked with a guy named “Maine Train”, and we pushed each other to reach the shelter. We also encountered a detour around a boggy section of trail. In the Smokies the next year I met a guy who had ignored those detour signs and nearly got stuck in the mud – I was glad I did not do the same. We finally reached the Pierce Pond Shelter around 7:00pm. The shelter was in a beautiful spot with a view of Pierce Pond. A large group of hikers was there, including the four I had met on my first afternoon on the trail. The bugs were out, so I set up my tent, and slept well that night.

Day 9: Pierce Pond to Moxie Bald
Sun 7/30 Moxie Bald 22.8 Elevation profile
Sunny, blue skies greeted the morning as I hastened up the trail to Harrison Camps, arriving a bit late because I slept longer than I intended to. The camp is a rustic set of buildings with sleeping areas and a common area for relaxation and dining. The cook served a breakfast of blueberry pancakes with wild Maine blueberries, which I ate gratefully. After breakfast I set out along a scenic stretch of trail following Pierce Pond Stream, which was marked by several cascades and rapids. The trail eventually led to the swift, wide Kennebec River, which has no bridge. Thankfully, a local outfitter provides shuttle services. I had to wait as some hikers ahead of me were shuttle across, then received my ride. On the other side of the river, the trail followed the river for a short distance, crossed US route 201 near the tiny town of Caratunk, then continued into the woods. The route continued to be relatively easy, and around noon I stopped at Pleasant Pond Leanto. A short side trail led to a lake (Pleasant Pond), which was mostly lined by trees but also a view vacation homes. A boat was out pulling water skiers. I let my feet dangle in the water from a dock for a while before moving on. The trail next climbed Pleasant Pond Mountain, which provided a superb view of the mountain ranges I had been climbing the past few days. After another low-lying, easy section the trail ascended another mountain, Moxie Bald. On the way up a hiker named Fast Lane passed me. When I reached the top, I discovered another awesome view, and found Fast Lane and another hiker picking ripe fruits from the abundant blueberry bushes that topped the mountain. I decided this was an excellent idea, and filled a Ziploc back with berries for desert. The Moxie Bald shelter was at the bottom of the mountain, in a scenic spot along another lake.

Day 9: Moxie Bald to Monson
Mon 7/31 Monson (Shaw’s) 17.9 Elevation profile
I awoke to another beautiful day, and strode off into the woods at a quick pace. I knew that this would be an easy section of trail, and hoped to arrive in Monson by mid afternoon so that I would have some time to enjoy the town. The route included fording two streams, one of which was a mid-thigh level. For several miles the trail followed the Piscatquis River through Horseshoe Canyon. Eventually I reached a turnoff where an old sign, nearly grown into the tree it was fastened to, pointed the direction to Shaw’s Boarding House. I continued past the side trail, which was a shortcut to Monson, deciding that I would rather hike a few more miles to the road and then be able to start there the next day. I did not need to wait long for a ride, and soon was in Monson, where I got a bunk at the famous Shaw’s. I discovered it was not a good time of the week to be in Monson, since most of the restaurants were closed on Mondays – but I did find a place to eat. I also called Tatiana and discovered that I would need to delay my finishing date by a day, because she needed to attend a special orientation session for her new job. So I re-worked my itinerary and planned to take 6 days to hike the 100 mile wilderness instead of 5.

100 mile Wilderness day 1
Tues 8/1 Wilson Valley 10.4 Elevation profile
The breakfast at Shaw’s was memorable. The cook serves eggs, sausage, bacon, and pancakes, and the diners order by number: a 3, for example, gets you three of everything. I ordered a four, and even managed to eat some leftovers. Since there was plenty of time, I checked email in the library and caught a ride to the trail around 11:00. The prospect of hiking 100 miles without access to re-supply points, which is daunting for many hikers, did not concern me much. I had hiked 142 miles between Andover and Monson. The 10 miles to Wilson Valley were more rugged than the past few days, but still nothing compared to western Maine – mostly a number of small ups and downs. The only notable landmark was Little Wilson Falls, an impressive 60’ cascade on a small stream. There was also a ford of Big Wilson Stream, and a railroad track. A few middle-aged section hikers were at the shelter, but other than that things were pretty quiet. Another evening rainfall began after I had settled in, and I was once again glad to be out of the rain.

100 mile wilderness: Barren-Chairback Range
Wed 8/2 Chairback Gap 15.6 Elevation profile
The Barren/Chairback mountain range presents the most challenging obstacle to hikers in the 100 mile wilderness. Hiking this 12-mile long range was like getting a little taste of the more rugged sections further south. Although not particularly high in elevation, the trail was very rugged, so much so that one group of scouts that I encountered today spend the entire day traveling 7 miles between two shelters. The route did not challenge me to that extent, but I was tired after a 15 mile day. Toward the beginning of the range is an excellent viewpoint at Barren Slide, where an avalanche cleared the vegetation some years ago. I took a lunch break at Cloud Pond, a scenic spot surrounded by spruce trees. Further along the ridge, numerous rocky peaks protruded from the trees, creating a challenging route. Eventually I reached Chairback Gap shelter, where three other hikers had already settled in. One was a guy hiking with his dog, and the other two were novice hikers who had driven up from Florida. They were both college students studying to be musicians, and one had actually brought a trumpet – he played “taps” for us in the evening. A heavy rain had started by the time the scout group from Pennsylvania arrived. Most of them set up tents, but we were able to make space for a mother/wife traveling with the group and her 7 or 8 year old daughter.

Gulf Hagas
Thurs 8/3 Tappan campsite (+ 5 miles Gulf Hagas) 11.7 Elevation profile
The next morning the rain had again cleared, and I set off through wet vegetation and air warming in the sun. The first part of the day included a rather steep descent from Chairback Mountain, followed by a ford at the Pleasant River and a pleasant section of trail owned by the Nature Conservancy called The Hermitage. This area is fairly easily accessible to day hikers, who simply need to pay a user fee to the private company that owns the gravel road along the river. Soon I came to a side trail that led to the Gulf Hagas area, where I took a 5 mile side trip. The trail followed a rushing river that forms multiple waterfalls as it courses over the rocky terrain. The setting was reminiscent of the waterfalls along the North Shore of Lake Superior in Minnesota and on the western edge of the Porcupine Mountains in Michigan. Upon returning to the AT, I hiked up a gradual hill to Carl Newhall Leanto. I got water from the nearby stream, but because the weather was nice and there was plenty of daylight left I hiked a bit further to the Tappan campsite. The next section of trail began ascending the Whitecap Mountain range, and I climbed Gulf Hagas Mountain before reaching the campsite. Along the way a brief view opened up, from which I caught a glimpse of far-off Katahdin. The campsite included a nice grassy area next to the trail, which unfortunately was taken up by a group from a camp; I was able to find a suitable site in the trees, however, and enjoyed a night away from a shelter.

Whitecap Mountains to Cooper Brook Falls
Fri 8/4 Cooper Brook Falls 17.1 Elevation profile
Today was another clear, sunny day – at least for most of the time. I started by climbing over the rest of the Whitecap range, summated 2 minor peaks before reaching Whitecap Mountain – at 3654’ the highest point in the 100 mile wilderness. The rest of the route was relatively easy, passing several streams and ponds. I had hoped to go for a swim at Crawford Pond, but when I arrived around 2:00pm the skies were darkening in the west and thunder rumbled in the distance. I made it to Cooper Brook Falls Leanto before the rain started, and it did not last long. I still had a chance to swim – in the natural swimming hole below the falls on Cooper Brook. Bloody Mess and Fortune Cookie caught up to me here – I had not seen them since my 28 mile day over Bigelow – and stayed at the shelter. There was a group from a camp tenting nearby as well.

Cooper Brook to Wadleigh Stream
Sat 8/5 Wadleigh Stream 21.5 Elevation profile
I think this was one of the best hiking days I have ever experienced. The weather was perfect, the terrain moderate to easy, and the woods were beautiful. After starting from the scenic campsite along Cooper Brook, after a few hours I came to the Antlers Campsite, which is located on a peninsula in a beautiful blue lake surrounded by forest. It was a great place to enjoy a break and the view. On returning to the trail I discovered a privy that was designed to look like a small rustic building – with a window, curtains, and a (non-working) sink inside. The sign labeled it as “Fort Relief”. Later in the morning there was a side trail to a lake with a clear view of Katahdin, and several miles of walking along the scenic, tumbling Nahmekanta Stream. In the afternoon I reached Nahmekanta Lake, a large wilderness lake with a small drive-in campground on one end. A private camp was out of view on the far side, several miles away. I stayed for the night at Wadleigh Stream Shelter, which is located in a scenic wooded area along a small stream. Fast Lane, Bloody Mess, and Fortune Cookie were there, as well as a father-son duo I had met in Monson, and several section hikers. The wilderness was actually crawling with hikers, especially camp groups and section hikers out to do just the piece from Monson to Baxter – and I now understood why: that section of trail is very accessible to the moderately experienced backpacker.

Cooper Brook to Hurd Brook
Sun 8/6 Hurd Brook 19.6 Elevation profile
The hike today ranks highly on the scenic beauty scale, just like yesterday’s ramble. The terrain and scenery were similar, with long stretches of trail next to deep blue lakes and rushing streams. The morning started with a climb to a lookout point above Nahmekanta Lake, then proceeded for several miles along Polywog Stream, and then Rainbow Stream, where a shelter was tucked into a neat spot next to the water. The trail then followed Rainbow Lake for several miles before climbing to Rainbow Ledges. The Ledges were covered with blueberries, and I took time to collect some to eat with dinner. Katahdin was also clearly in view, looming over the scene. After a while I reluctantly moved on, eventually crossing the boulder-strewn Hurd Brook and arriving at the shelter with the same name. This is the northernmost official shelter on the trail (not counting the campsites in Baxter State Park), and many through-hikers write sentimental final entries in the journal there. The book was full, so I did not write anything. I was surprised, however, to read a brief note from Bloody Mess, scrawled onto the back of the notebook. She and Fortune Cookie had started hiking around 5:00, and the note indicated they intended to climb Katahdin tomorrow – which meant they were probably hiking into Baxter yet today. I guess they just wanted to finish the hike. My other companions from the previous night all showed up in due course, and we enjoyed a relaxing and beautiful evening.

Into Baxter
Mon 8/7 The Birches (Baxter SP) 13.4 Elevation profile
I took my time getting going as I left Hurd Brook, knowing that the day ahead would present an easy hike. I strolled the remaining 4 miles to the northern boundary of the 100 mile wilderness, which ends at a paved road primarily used by logging trucks. A pedestrian zone on the road bridge provided a way to cross the swift, wide Penobscot River. I stopped at the small camp store associated with Abol Bridge campground, and got a breakfast sandwich and a few other snacks, to tide me over until tomorrow afternoon. The trail took a sharp left beyond the store, and followed a straight corridor along the river, soon reaching an information board where hikers can sign up for a site at the Birches campground in Baxter State Park. I was the first northbound hiker to sign up for the day, so now I could take my time getting to the campground. After a few more miles, the trail turned right to follow Nesowadnehunk Stream, which tumbles down out of the park. Along the route are two waterfalls, named Big and Little Niagara. Tatiana and I had hiked to here from Daicy Pond on our honeymoon. I short time later I arrived at Daicy Pond, which was a recreational camp before being incorporated into the state park. Rustic cabins provide accommodations near the pond, which is a typical Maine lake surrounded by forest. In the center of the camp, on the water, is another rustic building that serves as the library – housing lots of old books on natural historic as well as general fiction, and board games and other rainy-weather activities. I found a comfortable chair on the porch, with a view toward the lake and Katahdin, and found a book to read. While the weather was still clear, the mountain was wreathed in clouds. I spent a couple of hours reading. Eventually Fast Lane showed up, and I decided to hike with him to the Birches campsite. The campsite is located a few hundred yards from the Katahdin Stream Campground, which is open to the general public. I checked in with a ranger and set up camp in one of the 2-person shelters at the site. There were two other guys there – southbounders who planned to start hiking the next day, and had received permission to camp there because there were not many northbound hikers around yet. Fast Lane got picked up at the park by his sister, and planned to return the next day for the climb; the guys from Boston had a reserved site in the regular campground. An older guy from West Virginia named Huff, who I had seen off and on for the past week, showed up at the Birches later in the afternoon.

Katahdin
Tues 8/8 Katahdin 10 (5 each way) Map of route Elevation profile
I was eager to start my climb today, although the mountain was still clouded over in the morning. I delayed a little, but eventually got on the trail around 8:00, hoping that the weather would eventually clear. I had climbed Katahdin with Tatiana in 2003 on our honeymoon, but we climbed from the other side, using the Cathedral Trail. The AT follows a route known as the Hunt Trail up the south side of the mountain. The first part of the trail was moderately steep, passing through spruce and northern hardwood forest. After a mile I reached Katahdin Stream Falls, and impressive waterfall that serves as a destination for some less ambitious hikers. After crossing the stream (which was a bit tricky because trail crew workers were installing a new bridge), the trail ascended more steeply through forest that rapidly turned to pure spruce. The trees got shorter, and eventually stopped altogether as I came to a rugged pitch that resembled a boulder field on a vertical slope. The climbing was difficult, but I did not have a good sense of the surrounding landscape because I was climbing through a cloud. I did not see anyone else as I hiked. After hoisting myself up many steep and high rocks, I eventually reached The Gateway, a pair of large rocks that mark the transition to more level ground approaching the summit. Above that point is a vast “table land” of rock, with scattered rare alpine plants and many temporary ponds or puddles formed by the rains. About a mile from the summit I passed the Thoreau Spring, named for the famous author who journeyed here in the 1840s. Eventually I found myself standing at the top. Two other hikers were there, day hikers who had come up a different trail. They soon moved on, and I hung around for a couple of hours, enjoying being on top of the world. For at least 30 minutes I was alone on top of Katahdin. The peak was still covered in a cloud, but I could see that things were beginning to break up, as views of the land below or the knife edge ridgeline to the northeast would briefly come into view, only to be swallowed up again in white foggy moisture. Other hikers started arriving, including Sven and Tailwind, two of the hikers I met on my first day of the trip. It felt good to know that I had kept pace, over the course of several weeks, with hikers who were conditioned from being on the trail since Georgia. Finally, I decided it was time to return down. As I made my way across the tableland and down the steep, rocky descent, I encountered several of the other hikers I had seen over the course of the past few days, including Fastlane and his sister, and the faster and son from Boston. As I climbed down the exposed ridgeline the clouds cleared completely, and I enjoyed a suburb view of the lake and stream filled countryside I had hiked through during the past week. Seeing how exposed the ridge was made me somewhat glad it had been cloudy on the way up! When I reached the bottom, I hung out in one of the small picnic shelters while waiting for Tatiana. Because of the work schedule change, she had starting driving from DC early that morning, so it was quite a feat to make it all the way to Baxter. We stayed at a B&B an hour or two south, after a hearty dinner at Friendly’s, and drove the rest of the way home the next day.